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Lets not beat about the bush. Jordanian driving is utterly shocking. Up until now, the most buttock clenching driving experience I’ve ever had is driving through the centre of Athens in rush hour. It trumped Rome easily. Jordan’s roads smack those two into the middle of next week.

The thing is, after a little time, you can recognise that the hyper beep overly aggressive style kind of works. If somebody cuts you up, you cut up the person behind and so the knock on affect goes. The consistency sort of brings you comfort – and my goodness, when you feel comfortable, you certainly are rewarded.

There really are some rolling scrap heaps floating about.

If you’re a keen driver, you could consider Jordan a bit of a hidden gem. The highlight of this is our drive south along the Dead Sea Highway. Smooth, quiet and serene roads with stunning views to the west. If you want views though, wait until Highway 60.

Highway 60. A steep, snaking ribbon of tarmac which slowly turned from epic driving fun to epic sightseeing fun. I could not recommend this route highly enough.

 

I did wonder if it was disrespectful to take photos of some of the many shacks. This was at full zoom.

The desert made famous by Thomas Edward Lawrence – Lawrence of Arabia.

In 1914, the Ottoman Empire sided with Germany in WW1. The British reacted by withdrawing their long term policy of support to Ottoman colonial rule in the area and supported Arab revolts led by Sherif Hussein’s four sons.

The Lawman was dispatched as an Intelligence officer to work out which son would make the best leader. He decided on Sherif Feisal and was formally assigned to him as an adviser. Together, they successfully seized both Akaba and Damascus from the Ottoman’s.

As for as I’m concerned, that was far too much running around. Camels are wayyyy too uncomfortable for that.

Jordanians really need a to pick plug. British or EU. Which do you fancy using today?

Is this fire too big for a tent? Had me worried for a bit.

Got to love an old Land Cruiser.

~2000 years old, the city of Petra grew rich through trading. I’m not sure what they traded, but judging by the place, it was some valuable shizzle.

You enter through the Siq gorge, an impenetrable natural city wall which guides you towards the city in a welcoming cool temperature. It must be over a mile before you arrive at the iconic treasury.

This is the treasury. It’s stunning. You aren’t even seeing the whole thing. A whole floor is now underground (often mistaken as a basement). The condition of the thing, especially given its age, it’s ridiculously good. Apparently the Siq has protected it from wind and rain and my goodness. What a sight. Shame you aren’t allowed in. I guess they want to protect the condition – or they don’t want you drinking from the holy grail.

The cathedral looks pretty similar to the treasury. the condition really isnt anywhere near the same close up though

Another worthy wonder of the world.

Bonus Petra! Once upon a time, you could pay some money and go sleep in one of Petra’s many caves. You can’t do this anymore, however, what you CAN do IS walk into Petra at night lit by candles! I’ve already mentioned how long the Siq is – that’s a lot of candles. I guess if you didn’t mind a cheesy line, you could call it pretty magical!

It’s a wacking great gorge which you can work your way up against the water. It’s pretty tough going (which isn’t really shown in these pictures!), and, in true Jordanian fashion, there is no health and safety. You get a life jacket and, well, that’s about it!

Get some of the water in your eyes and believe me; you’ll think it was deadly too. You might even be tempted then to rub your eyes. If you do; good luck to ya. It frigging stings. This wasn’t really my finest moment. You do float well though.

We stayed in a 5* Holiday Inn on the Dead Sea which cost about £25 each. It gave us access to the Dead Sea with the weird mud cleansing thing, a number of pools and ridiculously good service. You simply couldn’t go wrong (with the exception of the price of beer at £8 for a bottle!)

Couldn’t take the car anywhere near (apart from when we made a small navigation hiccup). We had to switch to a bus 10/15mins away to get through the military checkpoint.

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So, this wasn’t really explained in the previous post, but, the site of the church where Jesus was baptised is within metres of Palestine separated by the Jordan river. (As seen below).

Now, that’s jolly nice, however, as we followed this river border up, we reached a different section:

The other side of the border here clearly flies the Israeli flag. Now according to the UK gov website, travelling between Israel and Jordan can be troublesome because of the poor relationship between the countries. It’s possible either side wouldn’t let you in if they see the wrong stamp in your passport.

Our guide was a chilled out, level headed sort of guy. I asked how he felt about Israel. He made it clear the country we were looking at was Palestine and was simply occupied by Israel. He was quick to point out that he looks at the people, not the country. Isralies had helped put out a forest fire just over the border, a hospital in Israel saved his uncle and that he had been a few times and enjoyed himself.

However, the fact we were banned from waving to the people on the other side, the military presence and his slight bitterness towards the economic punishment Jordan was receiving due to not helping with the Syrian crisis said it all. The countries wernt really best buddies.

Today, I saw the promised lands of which Moses wasn’t allowed to enter. Shame really. It was pretty nice.

Jesus’ baptism site only discovered in 1999!!

If I’m honest, I didn’t find this as interesting as I probably should have done. However, the border situation with occupied Palestine (which is actually the trees right at the back in the bottom pic) was utterly fascinating.

AKA Debi and Helen’s 5am alarm clock tune 😂

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